Bermuda Lawn Care

How Bermuda Grass Grows

How Bermuda Grows

bermuda lawn careREAD THE FULL GUIDE → HERE

Roots – The roots of Bermuda grass can be VERY deep. Some have been recorded as deep as 60 inches. Most established lawns have root systems that run 8 – 16” deep. They are very fine, string like roots.

Runners (rhizomes and stolons) – Here’s the phrase we use. Rhizomes must RISE UP in order to be stolen. Rhizomes are under the ground and stolons are above the ground. Both have NODES which are reproductive points that will grow roots and start a “new plant”.

Rhizomes: a continuously growing horizontal underground stem which puts out lateral shoots and adventitious roots at intervals.

We can actually Steal these runners and plant them in bare areas. So if you have bare spots, let these runners grow on your sidewalk and driveway (don’t edge) steal them, and plant them in bare spots. Video link Below

bare spots in lawn

Bermuda Lawn Care

Bermuda Lawn Seed

Bermuda Seed – Sod – Basics

bermuda lawn seedREAD THE FULL GUIDE → HERE

Hybrid vs. Common Bermuda

Generally speaking… in “Bermuda terms”

Hybrid means laboratory developed / bred and there is no SEED that can be planted to grow the grass. Most SOD is hybrid. Plugs are generally used grow it, it is cut up and sold as sod. Most hybrid is a very fine bladed grass and grows dense. Any seeds produced / grown are sterile.

Common Bermuda is used in fields and lawns. The seeds can be purchased easily and cheaply and the grass has a more “thick” blade and the grass looks course. It’s very cheap seed and does NOT produce a FINE think blade like sod or golf course turf.

The biggest mistake people make is over seeding SOD… grass with cheap COMMON Bermuda seed. You will see a texture and color difference and it will look strange. Even if you use high quality seed you will still be able to see a texture and color variation. Just be aware.

Specialty Seed – On the website we list HIGH QUALITY seed that “replicates” the look and growth patterns of hybrid Bermuda. If you MUST do some seeding, see those links. DO NOT be cheap on the seed. It’s what your lawn will be for years and years. THIS IS A LAST RESORT. 99% of Bermuda lawns can be restored because Bermuda is so aggressive. NOTE: ALL BERMUDA SEED SOLD BY THE LOWES AND HOME DEPOT IS COMMON BERMUDA. Most high quality Bermuda seed runs $7 – $35 a POUND… this seed gives you the fine texture you seek.

YOU CAN… over seed common Bermuda with the HIGH QUALITY seed and let the two battle it out. Keep it cut short and usually the fine blades will win if kept very short.

Time to Seed

The best time to plant new Bermuda grass seed is when daytime temps are in the 80’s. (Late spring / early summer.) This is the “sweet spot” but it also can be planted during the summer months if LOTS of water is available. Do not plant Bermuda seed in the early spring or fall. Use PGF Complete to fertilize the new seed at the bag rate of one bag 18 pound (not 40) per 5000 sq ft. DO NOT use a starter fertilizer. Use PGF Complete.

bermuda seed lawn

How to Seed
It’s best to treat the lawn for weeds (no pre-emergent for 3 months prior) at least 2-3 weeks BEFORE seeding and make sure there has been good rain or watering since the treatment. Weed killers MUST be gone first. You must have rain to wash away weed killers.

Heavily rake the area or rent a bladed DETHATCHER which will loosen up the soil and thatch. Bermuda seed likes to be 1/8” to ¼” deep. (Watch the video below)

Spread the seed with a HAND spreader at the rate shown on the bag or heavier.

Water 2-3 times a day lightly until the seed germinates, then once a day for the next 2 weeks. You want to make sure the soil stays moist through the early germination and growth.

Be GENTLE with the new Bermuda the first season. Use no weed killers for the first 2 months, then VERY sparingly the rest of the season. Deal with some weeds and just live with them. The following year we’ll deal with these including pre-emergent.

over seeding bermuda lawn

Bermuda Lawn Care

Shade Tolerant Bermuda

Bermuda Hates Shade… Period

shade tolerant bermuda grass


RULE #1… For Bermuda to grow well, it really needs 8 hours of full sun a day. END OF STORY. I’d love to tell you that some varieties do better than others, but honestly… it LOVES the sun and no one has TRULY created a shade tolerant Bermuda grass.

Again, I said for it to grow WELL.

If you have trees casting shadows on your Bermuda… trim them up VERY high. This is known as lifting the canopy. Keep trimming lower branches and go up HIGH to eliminate as much shade as possible. The next option… cut the tree down. (Sorry)

I have areas that get reduced sunlight and they are ALWAYS weaker. Fertilizer will NOT help the problem. You might see a LITTLE success by allowing shaded areas to grow a little taller, but go back to rule #1… Bermuda hates shade.

Bermuda Lawn Care

Seasonal Stages Bermuda Grass

The Seasonal Stages of Bermuda Grass


Winter Your lawn is sleeping and it is dormant. Grass is brown. Remember, while it is dormant, it is still alive. DON’T put down TOTAL KILL products like RoundUp.

Early Spring- Your lawn is starting to wake up, slow growth. Green shoots start to show up and eventually a green haze shows.

Late spring temps rise into the 80s and the growth starts to accelerate. We start to see “runners” and the Bermuda will spread and thicken.

Early summer temps touch into the 90s and your grass is starting to SURGE in growth. Bermuda loves the 85-90 degree temps.

Mid summer As long as it has water, Bermuda will grow and grow.

Fall Bermuda growth starts to slow but remains green until frost temps hit.

Bermuda Lawn Care

Lawn Service Cost

DIY Lawn treatments or Hire a Lawn Service?

lawn service costREAD THE FULL GUIDE → HERE

The majority of “lawn chemical companies” do 3 things.

  1. Spray a 30-0-5 fertilizer a few times a year based on their route. (Not lawn’s needs.)
  2. Spray pre-emergent in the spring, and maybe in the fall.
  3. Add weed killers and apply to your lawn whether it needs it or not. (Most have ONE tank that treats all the lawns.) Often causing summer burns.

Basically… you’re a number on a route and if you have issues such as grubs, army worms, or fungus, they generally don’t treat for them. Our advice if you want a golf course quality lawn… Drop the lawn company… Period.

They also don’t take WEATHER into consideration when applying products. NOT SMART.

For about the same price of a “service” you can get TWICE the treatments and specifically design a program for your lawn’s needs.